UPPER CRUST VENTURE

Vermont Mystic Pie baking up success in Fairfax kitchen

By Isaac Olson - St. Albans Messenger Correspondent

FAIRFAX - In a continued effort to aid food-oriented entrepreneurs in their business quest, a local nonprofit has opened its doors to a budding pie company.

The Vermont Food Venture Center in Fairfax is dedicated to people who want to try their hand in the packaged food business, said Brian Norder, project director. With dozens of labels ranging from salsa to dressing, he said members can pay to use the equipment and learn about mass production and marketing.

Now, a natural food guru has moved in to make all natural frozen pies, crafted with Vermont products. Vermont Mystic Pie Company, available in about 70 New England stores, touts pure Cabot butter crusts, King Arthur Flour and fresh, Vermont grown apples all for under $10.

David Barash, owner said the pies go straight from the freezer to the oven, are ready in just over an hour and have "a distinct home-made taste." He has more than 20 years in the natural foods business, including more than a decade with Ben & Jerry's Homemade ice cream, and adds, "I have always loved pies."

Partially partnered with the ice cream duo, Barash said he had three things in mind when starting the business. He knew he wanted great tasting all natural pies. He wanted to use oversupply apples to conserve costs. And, he said, he wanted to use the box as a vehicle for a political message.

He spent almost nine months exploring the demand, measuring resources and checking out what's available in the frozen pie market. He then had a statewide competition, bringing in blue ribbon winning pie bakers from around Vermont to compete for a $1,000 prize. The winning pie didn't end up being the company's prototype, he said, but the makings of a recipe did emerge.

Barash then scouted for apples and discovered Champlain Orchard in Addison County. He bought the orchard a traditional peeler and now purchases peeled apples from it. Most, he said, are Empire apples because they provide the needed consistency, taste and price. Northern Spy and Cortland apples make up a smaller percentage of the apples used.

"The key thing we are trying to do is build a pie with Vermont apples," Barash said, noting his company uses them fresh when they are in season or stores the apples in a controlled atmosphere that keeps them fresh.

Creating a frozen butter crust with no additives or preservatives also was a challenge. The butter, he said, along with finely milled wheat and unformulated flour, gives the crust that flaky homemade texture.

Soon, he had the pie he was searching for with nothing artificial, no preservatives, fillers, hydrogenated oils or trans fats.

Barash commissioned Stephen Huneck to design the box. Huneck is a St Johnsbury based artist known for using bright colors and dogs in his illustrations. Messages appear on the backs of the boxes, such as one calling for reduced Pentagon spending.

The pies have been in production since Labor Day, Barash said, and things are running smoothly. He does see a future in making the pies available across the country, but he's not looking to be in every store in America. The focus, he said, is more on coops, natural food stores and specialty food shops.

Barash said the company is still in the experimental phase, testing to see if there is a strong demand for the product. So far, Barash said, it's "all signals go."

The numbers have been positive thus far and, if things do work out, he is planning to move the company to Burlington. Barash lives in Waterbury Center and both of his full-time employees are from Chittenden County. For now, he said, the food venture center is the "perfect space" for the pie company. A company, he said that is still very much in an evolutionary phase.

For example, Vermont Mystic Pie has been adding inserts and stickers to its packaging as it garners feedback from customers. It is also conducting experiments. Barash said different ovens produce different outcomes and sometimes customers haven't gotten what they expected. Additions to the original baking directions now recommend ways to create firmer or crispier crusts, while warning about variations in ovens.

Laura Nedick, pastry chef oversees much of the production. Describing the job as an "incredible experience," she said she has been learning a lot about the business and enjoys working with Barash. Barash, she said, is extremely passionate about the company.

Jay Goude the company's baker, has done everything from work in kitchens to laying sprinkler systems for golf courses. Now he helps Barash with some of the marketing footwork and assists in preparing the pies. It's a lot of work, he said, but he's been having a good time.

Barash said he has a positive outlook on where the company is going and is looking into other flavor possibilities, such as strawberry-rhubarb.

The Vermont Food Venture Center provides a wide array of cooking, baking and packaging equipment. It also serves up shipping options. The customers are mostly Vermonters looking to produce products with Vermont ingredients or that represent a Vermont theme, Norder said, but it has churned up out-of-state customers as well.

In operation since 1996 with much funding secured by U.S Sen. Patrick Leahy, the nonprofit is one of about 20 of its kind in the nation, Norder said. There is a kitchen, a bakery and plenty of storage at the center.

Fruit growers produce jams, pies, pastries and more. Vegetable growers vacuum pack slaws create tomato products, ship spreads or just package the vegetables individually. School groups, Norder said, also have taken advantage of facility. They have come in to explore the business world while learning a little about cooking and baking.